The weekend before last my other half took me to Bruges (or Brugge, depending on where you're from) for a few days. If you're going to visit Bruge autumn is a good time to do it, the trees looked beautiful against the canals and cobbled streets. It's like a surreal medieval fairytale town, the whole trip I felt I was floating around in a dreamy haze (but that could of been the beer...)
One of the things I liked most about it was the smell of wood burning everywhere we went. I think it was the smoke from old chimney's combined with light pollution from the center of the town that caused the Markt (main town square) to look like it was on fire one night we were there. See photo below.
Like most fairytale towns it's incredibly touristy but if you do a little research and stay away from the main streets and squares you can just about manage to escape the hoards of screaming children in neon vests. We mostly wandered aimlessly and came across some interesting sights, such as a kids playing football while hopping around in sacks and people chilling in Astridpark with large cardboard animal heads.
The main reason we went to Bruge was to sample some of the beers and we weren't dissapointed! If you go make sure you pay a visit to De Garre. It's just off the Markt on Breidelstraat, you have to go down a tiny alley way in between some shops. The alley way says "cookies" over it, there is usually a board up outside pointing you in the right direction too. I ordered a De Garre Triple which came served on it's own little wood veneer tray with a paper doilly and a small pot of delicious local cheese which went beautifully with the beer. The prices are reasonable and the selection of beer is incredible. The interior is cosy, with exposed brick and dark wooden tables. It is packed full of old locals getting through glass after glass of the house triple, I don't know how they did it when each glass of triple was around 9% alcohol. I am a big fan of white/wheat beers, I ordered the one they had on tap and it was the best white beer I have ever had. It's called "De Witte Van Celis" and is delicious, its got an almost yoghurty creaminess to it with a hint of lemon meringue *I'm drooling just thinking about it* Although this might not be the best example of an incredible Belgium beer because apparently the Celis brewery started up in Texas! Anyway, here's a picture of the lovely triple..
The most popular bar snack in Belgium seems to be Salami mit Kaas - cheese and meat (salami funnily enough). Often served in cubes with strong mustard and celery salt. Super savoury! I love it. Below is a example from
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Estaminet, right next to Astridpark, which is a really nice non touristy place for a drink after a stroll in the park (haha, I'm starting to sound like a cheesy guidebook already!)
We were suprised by the number of places that had Spaghetti Bolognese on the menu, it seemed to be at the top of menu in every bar and pub we visited! I guess it makes sense considering Belgium's love of cheese and meat. We were pretty broke by the end of our trip and a bowl of it for 6.50 euros at popular Cafe De Republiek (Sint-Jakobsstraat 36) was very welcome. We ordered the small size (large is 2 euros more) but as you can see from the photo a small is not so small. It was filling, tasty and homecooked, exactly what I needed after a few Duvels.
Here's some more pictures of things we saw (spot the ridiculously cute cat):
Another of our favourite bars was 'T Poatersgat. To find it look for the sign above the stair case at Vlamingstraat 82, and then follow the staircase down into the bar. It's a cosy, dark cellar with hops hanging from the arched ceilings, candles on all the tables and old arm chairs. It's got around 120 beers to choose from and nice bar staff. Plus they were playing Tom Waits, Jeff Buckley and Erykah Badu when we were there so I was happy.
Brugs Beertje (off Steenstraat on Kemelstraat 5) is a cosy little brown cafe covered in old beer adverts which is a bit more touristy but definitely worth a visit. It stocks an incredible amount of beer and the staff are friendly and knowledgeable, I heard them recommending beers to people by quizzing them about their tastes. What really struck me about all the places we visited is the pride people in Belgium take in serving their beer, you will ALWAYS be served the beer you choose in the glass it was intended to be served in. It was really refreshing to see people so passionate and knowledgeable about something. Here's a picture of the back room in the Bear..
Due to the crappy exchange rate we didn't get to eat as many of the local dishes as hoped. We had moules and frites once when we manage to find a place that did a set menu at lunchtime for 14 euros including a started of soup or salad. Everywhere else we saw was around 20 euros just for the main course. The mussels were nice and tender and cooked in a simple stock with onions and celery (they seem to use celery a LOT in Belgium).
If you go to Bruge make sure you stay at
Lut and Bruno Setola's B&B. It's very reasonably priced and is one of the nicest B&Bs I've stayed in. It's really central, clean, full of character, has big rooms and includes a delicious breakfast. Lut buys fresh pastries from a local bakery and there is a selection of cheese, meats, breads, yoghurts etc that she changed every day we were there.
The other place you've got to visit is a little deli and charcuterie called Diksmuids Boterhuis (23 Geldmuntstraat). It has piles of local cheeses and cured meats hanging from the ceiling in a bizarre little shop decorated with taxidermy!
Here's some other places that I visited or read were worth visiting (and are affordable!):
Frituur de Vier Winden, Markt (in front of Belfort) - There’s been a frites stand on the Markt since 1896. Here you can get a big tasty pile of frites with mayonnaise cheap.
Passage, Dweersstraaat 26 – Reasonably priced Belgium food in a cosy setting
Brasserie Forestière, Academiestraat 11 - Apparently had a good set menu for €11 and has some vegatarian options
nieuwmuseum, Hooistraat 42 - 25 euro set menu, belgium food
Sacre Coeur, Langestraat 137 – Cheap(ish!) bar and restaurant, part of a hostel
Toms Diner, West Gistelhof 23 - Rustic interior and serves stylish modern Belgian food at affordable prices.
Brasserie Medard, Sint-Amandsstraat 18 - Apparently here you can get a mountain of spaghetti bolognese for €3!
t' Gulden Flies, Mallebergplaats 17 - Small romantic restaurant east of the Burg with good food and reasonable prices. Set menu from 16 euros
Tearooms
De Proeverie, Katelijnstraat, 5-6 – best hot chocolate ever apparently, about 3 euros for a cup
Café Vlissinghe, Blekerstraat 2 - Said to be the oldest Bruges tavern, founded 1515. Oldy worldy. There’s a boules court in the garden.
Pubs/Brown cafes
Du Phare, Sasplein 2 – Jazz bar, also does food
Bierbrasserie Cambrinus, Philipstockstraat 19
17th-century sculpture-adorned brasserie/pub with good food and vast selection of beers. Book ahead if you want to eat.
De Windmolen, Carmersstraat 135, St Anna
Quaint corner café overlooking St Janshuismolen in St Anna, near the windmills. Popular with locals.
